Interview for Educational Program BRICS+ Fashion Summit

1. What features of the Brazilian climate affect the choice of materials and subsequent fashion preferences? Five most popular materials in the collections of brands from Brazil?

Luciana: As a continental country, Brazil has cold temperatures in the South, closer to Antarctica, and the hottest temperatures in the North and Northeast, crossed by the Equatorian Line, the closest point of Earth to receive more UV light from the Sun. Like the rest of the world, circa 80% of clothes in Brazil are made of cotton and polyester fibers, which is very unfortunate since we know the environmental impact of these fibers (i.e. too much pesticides and water for the irrigation of cotton fields, too much carbon footprint to produce polyester fibers). The rest 20% includes linen (one of the most sustainable fibers), leather (a controversial material), elastane (or lycra), wool, silk, viscose, etc. However, due to Climate Change, extreme temperatures and disasters will happen nationwide. The Brazilian government and scientists are working on a scenario of +3°C hotter after 2030. We still do not know how this will affect the fashion industry. But in my talk, I will point out some trends.

2. What unique elements of Brazilian design would you like to present to BRICS participants for possible borrowing in subsequent fashion collections?

Brazil is one of the world's main manufacturers of fibers and textiles, so I will look more at innovations in textile engineering, like coatings over textiles that can help us survive in extreme temperatures. We are in a moment to look at innovations in professional apparel and accessories, like fireproof textiles, and innovations in military apparel, to borrow them for streetwear.

3. What are the five main attributes of Russian fashion that appeal to you the most?

I am reading the book “In the Russian Style”, edited by Jacqueline Onassis, from the 1970s, which covers a period from Peter I to Alexander III. I can see that the boldness and the colossal aspects of those times are still present in the new generations. It’s about fashion to be seen, to make a statement. From the period mentioned, I liked the frelina dresses, the transition from H and A shapes in dresses still very much covered and embraided, and the influence of India and Pagoda style.

4. How do you assess the impact of the BRICS+ Fashion Summit on international fashion and local brands?

The event is a vibrant opportunity for a shock of reality. It is like bringing a sample from all over the world to make an impact by sharing knowledge, experiences, and inspirations, and that can finally instigate new perceptions and future collaborations.

5. What are your predictions regarding the impact of this fashion week on future trends in the Russian and international industry?

I truly hope that the BRICS+ fashion industry, and Russia in particular due to its continental relevance, considers the environmental impact of fibers, textiles, production processes, and consumption – even more because of Climate Change.

6. How do you see the importance of your participation and your involvement in such a type of event (BRICS+ Fashion Summit fashion intensive)?

I am a voice of the apocalypse but with hope. I will talk about trends in technology applied to fashion in these challenging times of Climate Change. Moreover, I will talk about greenwashing in fashion value chains, one of the topics of my PhD thesis in the Amazon rainforest. So, no sugar coating from my side, just heavy topics to raise awareness of the impact of the fashion industry on the climate.

7. What advice can you give to future students of the BRICS+ Fashion Summit fashion intensive?

Due to Climate Change, we can only design in three scenarios: adaptation, mitigation, and suffering. First, we should try to mitigate the environmental impact, thus making fashion sustainable, circular, and aligned with degrowth. Second, we need to adapt streetwear to extreme temperatures and disasters. Finally, if no mitigation and adaptation happens, we will design for our suffering in climate change, including climate anxiety, more losses, grief, and a dark moment.

8. Five tips on how to spend time intensively as efficiently as possible and make an investment in your future? With what attitude do you need to go through the intensive to get the maximum amount of benefits?

I like a quote from Gandhi, that when he would have more things to be done, he would meditate twice more – therefore, to clean the mind and be more focused.

I do two PhDs at the same time, teach, and I am a meditation trainer. As less time I have, more things I do. What is the secret? More organization and focus. I have everything organized in Excel sheets. And I take deep breaths, deep pauses, to reset my mind in between tasks. To take a break is very productive to stay productive.

9. Five features of Moscow that you think make it attractive to international designers and fashion brands?

Red, red, red, red, and red. If we can understand the power of the meaning of red in all dimensions, which we see in so many tones in the painting at the Tretyakov Gallery and the Red Square, I think we can understand the multiple layers of Russian history and the Russians’ emotions.